|Creation of the Manís Suit|
|The Suit in the 19th Century|
|Menís Dressing Gown and Waistcoat Fabrics|
|Menís Accessories in the 19th Century|
|Neckties and Cravats|
|Menís Accessories in the 20th Century|
|Tailoring for Women|
|Appropriating the Dandy|
|Contrast Between the Modern Suit and Feminine Fashion|
|Mid-Century America: Conformity in Suburbia|
|Mid-Century Humor: Conversational Textiles|
|Contemporary Tailoring for Men|
|Menswear Fabrics - A Glossary|
The term passementerie refers to narrow trimmings applied as borders on clothing and furnishings. Trimmings could be functional Ė e.g., to strengthen buttonholes Ė but they were also ornamental. Braid on the outside of trousers, for example, made the legs appear longer. Fundamentally, however, passementerie emerged as a signifier of rank within the military and, therefore, a signifier of power. In fact, the military uniform was integral to the aesthetic formation of the masculine image. Stiff wool and crisply tailored uniforms reinforced an erect posture, while gold embroidery accentuated a broad chest and long, powerful legs.
All photographs by Irving Solero, courtesy of the Museum at FIT, unless otherwise noted.