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                  Stylish, and So Cool You May Need a Parka

                 

                  By ROBIN FINN. The New York Times. October 16, 2002

 

 

                  Dr. JOYCE F. BROWN has her vermilion manicure wrapped around

                  the remote control that operates the gale-force

                  air-conditioning system that keeps her office at SUNY's

                  Fashion Institute of Technology, where she became president in

                  1998, more than fashionably cool. Cold.

 

                  Not that the ancillary chill is needed by the petite Ms.

                  Brown, who is not a k a Mrs. H. Carl McCall despite being very

                  married since 1983 to New York State's current comptroller and

                  Democratic candidate for governor. She is already the

                  consummate cool customer in her brown Ungaro suit and baroque

                  pearls, subtle complements to skin that resembles,

                  appropriately, coffee ice cream in tone and temperature. The

                  institute's first female, and first black, president emits

                  authority and glamour in waves, like a strobe.

 

                  "I am not a fashionista," says this veteran of 30 years in

                  public education administration, most of it at CUNY, plus a

                  short stint as deputy mayor during the Dinkins administration.

                  "What I know how to do is run a college, and this just happens

                  to be a fashion college. My clothes, well, it's all part of

                  the presentation. Now when my husband asks me where I've been

                  when I've gone shopping, I can get away with calling it

                  research."

 

                  He hardly interferes in her shopping habits: with a salary of

                  more than $151,000, plus $100,000 or so from various boards

                  she's on (like Polo Ralph Lauren and U.S. Enrichment

                  Corporation, a plutonium supplier), she can afford her own

                  Ungaros.

 

                  She offers, in a hostess's voice that is polite but slightly

                  hoarse (must be all that autumnal campaigning on hubby's

                  behalf), to mellow out the office polar conditions, but admits

                  she favors an icy domain. Since it clearly agrees with her — a

                  more fetchingly natural 56-year-old female executive would be

                  hard to conjure in this city of relentless cosmetic

                  enhancement — she is encouraged to keep the air the way she

                  likes it. Besides, the photographer is already too smitten by

                  her smile to complain about catching a cold, or about her

                  disinclination to pose at her desk, which she condemns as too

                  disorganized. Something she vehemently is not.

 

                  Ms. Brown continues smiling, tapping her nails on the

                  conference tabletop as if typing out her thoughts, even when

                  addressing touchy topics (she has a Ph.D. in clinical

                  psychology and evidently knows the secret to putting up a

                  pleasant front during interrogation).

 

                  First, there's her age: she may be 56 but she feels completely

                  unconnected to that lofty numeral. She has, she jokes, been

                  subject to bouts of chronological age rage since turning 25.

                  Next, and more seriously, there's her husband's recent

                  difficulty involving 61 letters of support for job-hunting

                  family and friends that he, unwisely although not illegally,

                  sent out on state stationery. His gesture earned him censure

                  in the media. Whether it cost him voter points is

                  undetermined, but Ms. Brown, hard-pressed to find the sin in

                  his desire to help the career trajectories of those he cares

                  about (including her), insists that it won't.

 

                  Regarding her job, which fulfilled a career imperative, she

                  says her husband didn't help her land it: "My husband did not

                  get me this job, and if he did know how to do that he should

                  bottle it, because it's not an easy process." Truth is, she

                  was approved by a board controlled by Gov. George E. Pataki.

                  If, as rumor has it, the job was an olive branch extended to

                  dissuade Mr. McCall from running for governor, well, it didn't

                  work.

                  

                  BUT there is no denying that her husband wrote those 61

                  letters, is there?

 

                  "Carl likes to be helpful," she says, gazing out the window.

                  "I don't believe you'll ever find anyone who would say he

                  tried to pressure them to do anything. I don't even want to

                  belabor it. I certainly knew we'd be under the microscope.

                  What I do I consider to be in the public domain as well, so

                  there's really no point in taking all this personally," Ms.

                  Brown adds, referring to the flap last spring over $529,000

                  the institute spent refurbishing the penthouse apartment where

                  she lives and entertains potential donors to the school's $60

                  million capital improvement plan.

 

                  "It was gratuitous and unnecessary and it went away," she says

                  of the controversy. She stands by the renovations, too: she

                  approved every swatch, sees it as an investment for the

                  college, not a castle for her and Mr. McCall (they also have a

                  weekend place in Dutchess County). "Anyone contemplating

                  donating to the college would have thought we didn't present

                  ourselves as arbiters of the very things we teach around here

                  had they seen the apartment before the work was done." So far,

                  the fashion institute has raised $16 million from private

                  donors, $4 million above the original target.

 

                  She is not done, either. Even if her husband wins, she won't

                  desert Seventh Avenue for Albany. "Remember, I'm not the one

                  who's running."

 

                  Ms. Brown grew up in Harlem: Convent Avenue at 141st Street.

                  Her mother worked for the city's Housing Authority; her father

                  was a postal clerk. Neither went to college, but a degree for

                  her was nonnegotiable. "I like to say they did such a good job

                  instilling the college mantra that I went forever," she says.

 

                  After Marymount, she attended graduate school at New York

                  University and worked at CUNY. Instead of having children —

                  though she gained a stepdaughter when she married — she had

                  jobs: "It was just how my life evolved; I made certain

                  choices, took certain chances. Now I tend to say I have 12,000

                  children." By 1990, she was acting president of Baruch

                  College, a temporary post. She wanted to prove she could run a

                  college and suspects that she did.

 

 

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